Raising Maine

Tips on finding a well-fitting bra.

By SUSAN HYDE, Raising Maine Contributor

More than any other item of clothing in a woman's wardrobe, the bra symbolizes femininity. However, finding the right bra – one that doesn't dig into your shoulders, ride up, accentuate back fat, poke you with underwire or leave you unsupported – is often easier said than done.

Since bras are an essential foundation garment for almost all women, I thought I could solve the mystery of the perfect bra by doing what women always do in situations like this. I asked my girlfriends. I received overwhelming responses that ranged from humorous to tragic:

"My niece, who is 18 and boob-gifted, saw me in my bra and started laughing. She said I was wearing a 'granny' bra. My chest is wide, and I guess my breasts are farther apart than 'normal.' (We) went on the hunt for a bra that would fit. I must have tried on 15. I gave up when my shoulders and chest became red with welts. We left the store empty-handed with me still in my 'granny' bra. I've had to accept that I will never be a Victoria Secret girl."

"I'm a 36A, and I have a ribcage to where my ribs jut out just about as much as my boobs, so it is really hard for me to find a bra that fits. I have four bras in my drawer, and only two of them are probably decent ones."

"I'm a 46-year-old mother of four – no cleavage, just the great divide – and until I lose some of the extra weight I am carrying, I'm a 36C, 'cause you know where the first place to lose weight is.' I would love to have a bra burning and start over."

"I hate bras! I have never found a bra that fits me. Being built like a football player makes it difficult."

"I thought I bought some great bras. They fit well in the dressing room, but then I wore one out only to find out that when I walked the bra popped up and I was coming out of the bottom of the cup. Another time the wire came loose and popped out of my shirt."
Whether curvy or athletic, voluptuous or not, every woman I spoke to seemed to be frustrated with some aspect of finding a comfortable bra. I decided to take this "Mission Impossible" to a professional to get some answers.

Jennifer Lancia, manager of Lady Grace Intimate Apparel in South Portland, was just the lady to answer my questions.

"If a bra isn't comfortable," Lancia says, "then it isn't a proper fit."

With as many as 85 to 90 percent of women wearing the wrong size bra, Lancia suggests that women be fit-checked at least once a year. "We have kids, we gain and lose weight, we go through menopause. All of these things change the way our bras will fit."

But can't a woman go it alone? It's not advisable. "Usually," Lancia says, "if a woman thinks she's in the wrong size she'll go up a band size when she should go up in cup size." For this reason, Lancia recommends that women go to a specialty shop for a professional fitting and the opportunity to try on a number of bras.

It turns out that the secret of a good bra is mostly in the band. "The band carries 90 percent of the weight of the breasts," says Lancia. "Often women think that a bra is too tight when it is really too large. With a poor fit, the weight of breast tissue pulling down in front causes the band to ride up in the back." When a bra fits properly, the band in the front will parallel the band in the back.

While full-figured women often struggle to find a bra that has proper support, Lancia says that it can actually be much more difficult to fit a smaller woman because, as the weight of the general population creeps upward, manufacturers are discontinuing many of the smaller band sizes. A specialty shop, however, can usually order additional sizes when necessary.
What about bra styles? Should fuller-figured women stick to underwire? Should they avoid demi-cups? Once again, Lancia points to a proper fitting as the answer to all of these questions. Overall body type and the density of the breast tissue is as important in appropriate fit as size.

"Once upon a time," Lancia said, "soft cups and non-wired bras didn't have the support of underwire. This is no longer true, regardless of size." This is a good thing for shorter-waisted women, many of whom "just cannot wear an underwire," Lancia says.

As for demi-cups, Lancia says that the density of breast tissue may have more to do with whether a woman can wear this style than cup size. "When a woman comes in for a fitting," Lancia says, "we look at overall body type during the fitting. From there we can make suggestions."

The one-year rule for fitting also makes sense since, Lancia says, "Most women are surprised that the life span of a bra is six to 12 months." After that, she explains, the band's elastic probably isn't properly supportive. Ideally, too, machine washing should be avoided through the life of a bra, as should harsh detergents and bleach, which can break down the elastic more quickly. "A bra should never ever be put in a dryer," Lancia emphasizes. "The heat breaks down the elastic."

While it isn't necessary to break the bank for a good bra – Lancia says that most of the bras in her shop are in the $30 range – at times you really do get what you pay for. "Many of the more expensive European bras are hand-stitched," Lancia says. Since stitching adds support, the hand-stitching may make a difference for some women.

For great sports bras, the women I questioned recommended Title9Sports.com. From the "Not-A-Bomber" bra for smaller-sized women to the "five-barbell" rated "Last Resort" bra for women up to 40DDD, Title Nine provides a wide array of choices for women who need to look beyond the box stores for their exercise bra choices. Title Nine also has "Bra Coaches" available by phone and e-mail for active women who have questions about merchandise.

Ultimately, no other piece of clothing defines womanhood in quite the same way as a bra. With a proper fit, women will find that they can get practical or sexy comfort in a variety of styles.